How to easily build a strong and cheap Watertrap
By Nikos Roukounakis

1. Which one?

The first question we should ask ourselves is:

Should it be a Vortex trap or a T-type one?

The answer we should give is: “But a T-type of course!”

And here is why:

a. T-type watertraps are easier and cheaper to construct and it’s also easier to find the proper materials.

b. The vortex trap loses easily its efficiency if the central hole is not perfectly centred.

c. T-type watertraps are easier to add stages to (and make them stronger and stronger).

d. The T-type Watertrap is purely a magnetic trap, but the Vortex works in a double way. It is mainly a centrifugal trap and secondly a magnetic trap.

The thought behind the centrifugal principle was to take advantage of the antigravity phenomenon that sometimes takes place on ORME.

Unfortunately this few years of experience with Ormus have shown that this phenomenon doesn’t happen very easily.

Most of the times even if Ormus loses some of its weight, it’s still very heavy. Don’t forget that we have to compare with the molecule weight of water (16+2=18). This is very light! If we consider that we deal with the atomic weight of Ormus-metals (197.2 for example for Gold – not to mention the possibility of Ormus being diatomic-2x197.2 or triatomic-3x197.2 etc ). How much of its normal weight should it lose so that the centrifugal coefficient of the trap will be positive? Instead of collecting them it could even drive them away!

Things are even worse when we work with seawater. Since seawater is not chemically neutral, many of the Ormus may be bonded to heavier molecules.

2. Which are the rules for constructing a strong T-type WaterTrap?

a. The first rule is the most simple one:

Prefer Neodymium magnets to Ceramic ones.
They are more expensive but they are much stronger. If you can’t find them or can’t buy them don’t get disappointed. You can come to the same quality of water but with a slower flow.

b. The second rule is the most difficult to explain:

Follow the correct architecture.
What does this mean?

Well, you simply put a donut magnet on your T connection and now you have two outputs: The “waste water output” and the “selection water output”.

Obviously the “waste water” must come from the side were the magnet is.

Correct.

But now you have three possibilities. All three work but only one of them works efficiently.

Unfortunately you can find all three on the Internet as suggestions for trap constructions.

But which is the correct one?

Fig.1 Which one?

The Golden Mirror

We shouldn’t let theory steal our time, but I will only say two things very briefly:

Every conductor has these three characteristic properties that we all know from school: R, L and C*. L is the “coil like” property and it’s easy to remember that when a coil reacts to an induced magnetic field (H) its reaction (-H) is on the same axis with the first field.

The main difference with Ormus is that R=0. We deal with a superconductor. This means that the loop currents that create the reacting field don’t fall instantly to zero and “H” is steadily reflected on the Ormus mirror producing a Force (F) that repels Ormus away.

Fig. 2 Field and Force Geometry

· In years to come we expect to find more about the “C” property of Ormus but we don’t expect it to be as useful as “L” is (how many electrostatic speakers do you Know?).

Having understood the above we conclude that from the three possibilities, “A” (from Fig.1) is the correct one. (It’s the only one where the magnet pushes Ormus directly to the selection output).

Ph.1 Minimum Complete Structure

We see here a simple T- connection with a donut magnet and it’s almost a complete Watertrap.

And here it is connected and working:

Fig. 3 Complete Watertrap

3. Can I make my Watertrap stronger?

You can do it with a simple modification that helps for even greater efficiency.
We just have to include a few small magnets (or a long orthogonal one) at the "waste" side of the input "neck". Even a few centimetres will be enough to "place" the ORMUS at the correct side. Then all we need is a small push from the donut magnet:

Ph. 2 Adding the 2^nd Magnet



Fig. 4 Double magnet trap

- A long orthogonal magnet at the input neck of the T connection pushes Ormus to the opposite side.

- We can hold the magnet with tape.

- Warning! We don’t have a complete watertrap structure till we put the donut magnet also. It’s the donut magnet that will give the final push.

4. Are there other ways to make my Watertrap even stronger?

You can simply add 2, 3, 4 … stages to your watertrap.
It is as if you have 2, 3, 4 … watertraps in series.

Fig. 5 Basic structure of a two stage watertrap

Keep in mind that if you consider your watertrap strong enough for a 1/5 ratio (selection/input), adding a stage will give a 1/5 x 1/5 = 1/25 ratio.

That means that for every 25 Lt of water that you feed it, you‘ll have a selection of 1 Lt only (but with 25 times higher concentration of Ormus).

5. But how am I going to regulate those ratios?

Basic Rule:

The flow must be regulated at every waste output and at the final selection output.

That means that for an n-stage trap you have to regulate at n+1 points (n+1 faucets).

Why should we regulate waste water?

If you regulate waste1, for example, what you’re really regulating is the pressure at the input of stage2.

Fig. 6 Two stage trap with
flow regulation

6. Are there other details that I should take care of ?

Yes, there are a few:

a. If you construct a trap with 3 or more stages you’ll have to use different pipe sizes.

b. A wooden frame (red in Ph. 3) can make your construction more robust and easier to transport.

c. Direct all wastes to the same point. It’s more practical (if you want to stay dry).

d. If you want to use the waste water you can gather it into a collector.

Ph. 3 Three Stage Watertrap with different
pipe sizes and a wooden frame

Ph. 4 Three Stage Watertrap with Collector

7. Doing it!

This is the most important: don’t start with a three Stage Watertrap.
Start with the most simple of them all and…IMPROVISE!

Don’t try to imitate specific designs from the Internet. It’s almost impossible to find the exact components. Everyone here is supposed to follow the European standards and they do. But every factory makes different materials. I usually buy from four different shops and combine them.

If you find it difficult to choose, take with you a printout of “Fig. 3 Complete Watertrap“ and show it at the shop. If you want add two faucets to it.

Final solution: If you try but can’t do it take this page directly to your plumber: “Yes I’m nuts, but can you do this for me?”